- Day 6: Last Day on Sifnos and Travelling Home
- Days 2 – 5: Exploring Sifnos
- Day 1: Flight to Athens, Piraeus and Sifnos Arrival
Monday 19th – Thursday 22nd June 2023
A Condensed Trip Report
I’ve compiled our days exploring Sifnos into a single post—mainly because, well, I forgot to take detailed notes and can’t quite recall what we did each day. But the highlights? Those I remember, and that’s what you’ll find below.
Monday 19th June – Hiking Profitis Ilias
On our first full day, Ed suggested we hike from Apollonia to the monastery of Profitis Ilias, the highest point on the island. Though only a few kilometers west of the capital, the warm weather and steady climb made it a bit of a challenge. We fueled up with a solid breakfast, packed plenty of water, and hopped on a bus from Kamares.
Disembarking at the main bus stop in Apollonia, we wandered south through the village to find the trailhead. The hike itself was well-marked and easy to follow, initially descending before the steady ascent to the summit. In under an hour, we reached the monastery and were rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views.
Back in Apollonia, we found a rooftop bar, claimed a shady spot, and enjoyed a well-earned beer and snack before catching the bus back to Kamares.
Tuesday 20th June – Hiking from Faros to Vathy (Almost)
Day two took us on another hike, this time beginning in the southeastern coastal village of Faros. A scenic trail winds along the headland, past Apokofto Beach, leading to the Chrisopigi Monastery—one of Sifnos’ most famous landmarks. It was an easy walk, mostly flat, and took less than 30 minutes.
After a quick stop to explore the monastery, we continued southwest on a mix of paths and roads until we reached Platis Gialos. As it was Ed’s first time on the island, we walked the length of the beach, taking in the scenery, before hunting for a lunch spot. Many tavernas were still closed, but we eventually found one open and settled in for a meal.
The original plan was to hike west to Vathy and catch a late afternoon bus back. Unfortunately, I started feeling unwell not long after leaving Faros. By the time we finished lunch, I wasn’t sure I could continue. I suggested Ed go on while I took the bus back to rest, but he opted to return with me and find something more low-key to do.
After a bit of a wait, we caught the bus and made it back by mid-afternoon. I went straight to my room for a nap, hoping to shake off whatever was making me feel off. It helped enough that we still managed a couple of drinks at Captain’s Bar and a decent dinner that evening.
Wednesday 21st June – Car Hire
Given our short time on Sifnos, we debated whether to rent a car. The local bus network is decent, but we decided a one-day rental would help us cover more ground and give Ed a chance to see as much as possible.
Early on our third full day, we picked up the car and set off north to the small fishing village of Cheronissos. After a short stroll and an early snack lunch, we headed south towards Vathy, stopping at Agios Andreas church. For the second time, I found the Mycenaean Acropolis ruins closed, but we walked around the fence and enjoyed the impressive views.
At Vathy, we parked and wandered along the beach before stopping at a beachfront taverna for a drink. I couldn’t resist a swim in the calm, crystal-clear bay, so I changed into my shorts and waded in for a quick dip.
For me, no trip to Sifnos is complete without a sunset visit to Agios Simeon church. Perched high above Kamares, it’s my favourite spot in Greece. Late in the afternoon, we returned to the hotel to freshen up before making the short but steep drive up to the church. The views were, as always, breathtaking—a moment of pure peace and tranquillity.
We lingered until the sun dipped below the horizon, then drove to Apollonia for dinner, making the most of having the car for one last meal in the capital.
Thursday 22nd June – Kastro, Last Full Day
It felt like we had just arrived, but our final full day on Sifnos was here. We’d saved Kastro for last, deciding to take the bus instead of driving. Why? Ed had found Kavos Sunrise—a quirky Cuban-inspired dive bar—online and insisted we visit. Cheap rum cocktails and an eccentric owner? We had to see for ourselves.
The morning was spent lounging on Kamares Beach, soaking up the sun outside To Kohyli Taverna. After freshening up at the hotel, we caught the early afternoon bus to Apollonia, and then transferred to another bus for Kastro. We took our time strolling through the old capital’s narrow streets, making our way down to the iconic Church of the Seven Martyrs.
I could sense Ed’s growing thirst for a rum-fueled adventure, so we retraced our steps and found Kavos Sunrise. It was certainly an experience—€5 for a plastic cup half filled with rum, topped with whatever mixer you wanted. Not exactly refined, but Ed powered through a second round. I passed.
More than a little tipsy, we made our way back to Kamares for our farewell dinner at Passione Italiana, my favourite restaurant. A whole litre of house wine might have been excessive, but it disappeared quickly enough. Fortunately, the three-course meal helped balance things out!
And just like that, our time on Sifnos was coming to an end. But what a trip it had been!
