Day 65: Sifnos Sunshine and Mavri Spilia Hike

This post is part of a series called Greek Odyssey 2021

Wednesday 8th September 2021

Blue Sky at Last

After days of dreary, overcast mornings on Sifnos, I was thrilled to wake up to sunshine spilling through my curtains at last! A few wisps of cloud still lingered over the hills surrounding Kamares, but they were no match for the clear blue sky. Even the wind, which had been whipping through the village, had softened into a gentle breeze. As I stepped out onto my balcony, the warmth on my skin was a welcome reminder of why I love Greece so much.

After a satisfying breakfast at Hotel Boulis, I decided to stick with a familiar plan: another relaxing day at the beach! Though I’d toyed with the idea of exploring Apollonia or Artemonas, it made more sense to wait until my parents arrived tomorrow and show them around together.

Beach Bound

*Pleased to see Kamares Beach in all its sunny glory*

I headed to my usual spot at To Kohyli, but this time, the sunshine made all the difference. With England’s grey skies looming in my near future, I fully embraced the moment, soaking up as much sun as possible to top up my tan. It’s incredible how much the weather can impact your mood—even though I wasn’t feeling down before, the sunshine had me grinning ear to ear. Feeling indulgent, I treated myself to a proper lunch: a burger and chips washed down with an ice-cold beer. It wasn’t the cheapest lunch (€9 – I’m on a budget, in theory), but it hit the spot.

After lunch, I reclined back on my sunbed, letting the food settle while basking in the warmth. A few dips in the sea were the perfect antidote to the heat. If I haven’t mentioned it enough already, this beach is pure magic—crystal-clear water, soft sand with no rocks or seaweed, and gentle waves. It’s like swimming in a natural infinity pool, and I never tire of it.

Mavri Spilia

By mid-afternoon, I decided to take a break from the sun and head back to the hotel. Feeling a bit restless, I turned to Google Maps to see if there were any nearby spots worth exploring. One caught my eye: Mavri Spilia, a historical site perched on the hillside southeast of Kamares. It looked close—just under 2km from the hotel—but with a 338m altitude gain, I knew I was in for a climb.

Setting off from my accommodation, I followed the road past the village car park and crossed the main road. The path started gently enough, winding past a few hotels, but it soon transformed into a steep gravel track snaking up the hillside. The climb was tougher than I’d expected, and I quickly realized I wasn’t just going for a leisurely stroll.

At one point, I got a bit lost near a small building, wandering in circles before finally finding the trail again. Once back on track, the real challenge began. The path zigzagged sharply up the hill, with sections so narrow and gravelly that I found myself inching along, nervous about slipping. Halfway up, I encountered a particularly dicey spot where the path had partially eroded, leaving a steep gravel slope to cross. For a moment, I debated turning back. I was alone, and nobody knew where I was—probably not the smartest decision—but something urged me to push on. Adventures are all about pushing limits, right?

Reaching the top was as rewarding as I’d hoped. The final stretch of the path was easier, and the views were breathtaking, with Kamares and the Aegean stretching out in every direction. Mavri Spilia itself was underwhelming—a modest pile of rocks hinting at a long-collapsed structure. But honestly, I didn’t mind. The hike was more about the journey, the exercise, and the chance to explore the island.

There’s a trail from Mavri Spilia that continues inland toward Apollonia, but I decided to retrace my steps as I wasn’t equipped for a longer hike. Surprisingly, the descent wasn’t as nerve-wracking as I’d feared—maybe because I’d already conquered the climb. Within 30 minutes, I was back at sea level strolling towards the hotel, basking in the glow of my accomplishment and the fantastic views it provided.

Dinner Time

I arrived back at the hotel around 6 pm, tired but satisfied. After a quick shower and some downtime, I headed to the courtyard for dinner at the hotel restaurant. The food was fantastic, though I was a bit disappointed they’d run out of moussaka, my favourite Greek dish. Instead, I opted for chicken in a rich tomato and herb sauce, followed by a decadent chocolate mousse for dessert. The mousse was surprisingly light—far less sweet than it looked—and the perfect end to the day.