Day 63: Sifnos Cloudy First Day

Monday 6th September 2021

Every First Day Begins with Breakfast

I woke up around 8:30, feeling well-rested despite the bed’s less-than-inviting appearance. Breakfast wasn’t included in my room rate, though the hotel offered it for €6. But as it was my first morning back on the island, I couldn’t resist the nostalgic pull of Cafe Stavros. During my last visit in September 2020, I’d started every day there, and it felt only right to continue the tradition.

The hotel’s beachfront location gave me the perfect excuse to take the scenic route—walking along the sand to the cafe. The weather was a bit moody, with clouds overhead and a brisk wind brushing against the shore. While the sea didn’t sparkle in its full glory, the familiar sound of waves and the feel of sand beneath my feet made me grateful to be back.

At the cafe, I snagged a table right by the beach and ordered my old favourite: coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice, Greek yoghurt drizzled with honey, and toast with butter and jam. Prices had climbed a bit since my last visit—€12.90 felt steep—but the flavours were as delightful as I remembered.

Beach Time

For me, the first day on a new island is sacred—a time to unwind and soak up the atmosphere, preferably by the beach or pool. After savouring breakfast, I strolled back to the hotel, changed into my beachwear, and returned to the sand, ready for a day of pure relaxation.

Last year, I found a sweet spot with free umbrellas just south of the hotel (as long as you bought a drink). But to my dismay, those umbrellas now came with a €5 daily fee. It wasn’t unreasonable, but I decided to wander farther south to see if I could find a better deal. The southern end of the beach is lined with bars and cafes, each with their own sunbeds, so there were plenty of options.

I settled on a quiet spot called To Kohyli. The sunbeds looked inviting, and there were barely any other tourists in sight. A quick chat with the waitress confirmed the beds were free if I ordered food or drinks, so I claimed my spot, laid out my towel, and began the rigorous task of sunbathing while alternating between my Kindle and Spotify playlists.

The sun eventually broke through the clouds, turning the morning into a pleasantly warm affair. I indulged in a few refreshing dips in the crystal-clear water and treated myself to a cold beer as the clock inched toward midday.

Cheap Lunch, Cloudy Afternoon

Hoping to save a bit of money, I skipped a formal lunch and grabbed some biscuits and a Coke Zero from the mini-market on the main street before heading back to the hotel. The clouds had returned, making the beach less appealing, so I spent the afternoon indoors, finishing up my Naxos YouTube video. I’d planned to head back to the sand later, but the overcast skies and cooler breeze put me off. After two months in Greece, even 25°C felt chilly when the sun disappeared—a bittersweet reminder that my Greek adventure was nearing its end as summer slowly gave way to autumn.

More Italian Food Please

By 7 pm, I was showered, dressed, and ready for another fantastic dinner. Since I’d dined at my favourite restaurant the night before, tonight’s pick was my second favourite: Da Claudio, an Italian spot conveniently located next door to Camaron, with similar stunning views.

Switching it up from the pasta I’d had yesterday, I ordered a pizza and started with mushrooms in garlic sauce. However, I underestimated the evening chill and regretted wearing just a polo shirt and shorts. After placing my order, I dashed back to the hotel to grab a long-sleeved top—putting on a jumper felt strange after weeks of summer attire, but it was a relief against the cool breeze.

The meal was satisfying overall, though not without a few hiccups. The starter portion was massive—far too much for one person—and the garlic sauce was thinner than I’d hoped. Dessert didn’t fully redeem the evening either; the chocolate soufflé looked indulgent but turned out to be surprisingly bland. Still, with a glass of wine in hand and my Kindle keeping me company, I enjoyed the tranquil ambience of the evening before making my way back to the hotel to call it a night.