Day 19: Exploring Paros by Quad Bike (ATV)

Thursday 7th July 2022

Getting the Most out of Paros

In the 12 days I’d already spent on Paros I’d seen quite a lot of the island, including neighbouring Antiparos on three occasions (here, here and here). I’d managed all this using the excellent local bus network, which covers the majority of coastal villages dotted around the island.

The Limitations of Local Buses

I was eager to explore some of the hidden gems along the northeastern coastline of Paros, the kind of beaches you can’t just hop on a bus to visit. This meant I had to figure out my own transportation—a bit of a splurge I hadn’t planned for, but I also wasn’t sure when (or if) I’d ever be back. So, rather than leaving with a list of “what-ifs,” I decided to go all in and see everything I could.

With that mindset, I rented a quad bike (or ATV, whichever you prefer) for the day, paying €50 at Loukis Rentals in Parikia. A bit steep, but I knew from experience that all the rental shops charge about the same, and spending an extra hour searching wouldn’t save me more than a few euros. After a quick stop to top up on fuel, I was off, riding northeast toward Naousa, ready to kick off my little adventure.

Lageri Beach

There are a handful of beaches scattered to the northeast of Naousa—Dionisos, Lageri, Santa Maria, and Xifara/Siparos being the easiest to get to. I decided to start with Lageri, the furthest one, and work my way back toward Naousa for lunch later. My trusty Google Maps tried to send me down a private road (thanks for that), but after a bit of rerouting, I finally found a spot to park at the northern end of the beach. It wasn’t the smoothest ride—think bumpy dirt roads—but that made arriving all the more rewarding.

The beach itself was completely empty, probably because it was still early. I had the whole place to myself, so I strolled down to the sand dunes, snapped a few photos, and even got my drone out for some aerial shots. With no one around, it felt like I had my own private slice of paradise.

Dionisos Beach

After soaking in the tranquillity of Lageri Beach, I made my way back north toward where I’d parked the quad. But instead of heading directly to my next destination, I let curiosity guide me and decided to take a detour around the bay. That’s how I stumbled upon Dionisos Beach—a tiny, tucked-away stretch of sand that feels more like a hidden secret than a major destination.

To be honest, I doubt many people make the effort to visit Dionisos, especially with more picturesque beaches just around the corner. But that’s part of its charm. There’s something peaceful about a quiet, unassuming beach where you can pause for a moment and feel like you’ve discovered something off the beaten path. With the sun glistening on the calm water and barely a footprint in the sand, it was a serene little stop before moving on.

Santa Maria

Back on the quad and ready for more, I turned to Google Maps again and set course for Santa Maria Beach, which I had high hopes for. As the sun climbed higher, so did my anticipation. The route, however, took a surprising twist when I found myself riding straight into a campsite. At first, I thought Google had played a trick on me again, but a quick check of the map confirmed this was, oddly enough, the most direct way to the beach. Since no one stopped me, I rolled with it, quite literally, and parked the quad under the shade of a tree, ready for the short walk to the shore.

As I approached Santa Maria, I could already hear the laughter of families, the distant hum of beachgoers, and the telltale sound of waves lapping at the shore. The beach was beautiful, with golden sands stretching along the coast, but it was busy—too busy for the relaxed, laid-back vibe I was seeking. Sunbathers lounged under brightly coloured umbrellas, and children splashed in the shallow waters, filling the beach with an energy I wasn’t quite in the mood for.

Though it looked like a great spot for those wanting a lively beach day, I decided to keep moving. Sometimes, the quieter, more secluded beaches offer a different kind of magic, and I was on the hunt for that kind of peaceful escape. So, with a final glance at the bustling scene, I hopped back on the quad, ready to chase down the next hidden gem on my list.

Siparos/Xifara Beach

As I made my way back toward Naousa, a picturesque beach caught my eye just off the road. It had that perfect mix of calm and beauty—soft, inviting sand and crystal-clear waters that seemed to sparkle under the midday sun. The beach was fairly quiet, with only a handful of people enjoying the peaceful atmosphere, so I couldn’t resist stopping for a refreshing dip. The cool water was just what I needed after a morning of exploring, and I let myself float for a while, soaking in the serenity of the moment.

Now, about the name—Google Maps labels it as both “Siparos” and “Xifara,” so I wasn’t entirely sure what the locals call it. Whichever name you choose, the important thing is that it was a hidden gem that offered a peaceful break before heading back to civilization.

Lunch Stop in Naousa

After drying off and feeling thoroughly rejuvenated, it was time for lunch. I rode into Naousa and parked the quad along the road just past the bus station. From there, I strolled toward the harbour, my stomach growling as I scanned for a good spot to grab a bite. I was looking for something tasty but affordable—a tricky balance in a place as charming as Naousa.

I eventually found a small snack place called Pita Frank, which hit the spot. I tucked into a delicious pork gyros, washed down with a cold beer while watching the lively bustle of the harbour area. It was a simple but satisfying meal, the kind that makes you feel like you’re truly on vacation.

Monastiri, Kolympethres and Lageri (Again)

With my hunger satisfied, I hopped back on the quad bike, this time setting my sights on two more beaches to the west of Naousa: Monastiri and Kolympethres. First up was Monastiri, a small beach that seemed to cater to the more affluent crowd. The beach was dominated by an upscale beach bar, and the vibe was unmistakably luxurious, with stylish sunbathers lounging under chic umbrellas. It didn’t quite match the laid-back energy I was searching for, so I decided not to hang around too long. The scene felt a bit too busy and, dare I say, pretentious for my taste.

Next, I passed by Kolympethres, which seemed quieter but was a narrow strip of sand quite close to the road. While it was less crowded than Monastiri, the proximity to traffic and the smaller size of the beach made it less appealing for a lengthy stay.

With a few hours of the afternoon still left, I decided to return to Lageri, the beach that had left the best impression earlier in the day. I was hoping to relive the tranquillity I’d experienced that morning, but when I arrived, it was clear the word had gotten out—Lageri was now much busier, and I quickly realized it had also become popular with nudists (mostly men, unfortunately!). I kept my distance, stayed long enough to appreciate the beach again, and then decided it was time to head back toward Parikia.

Before calling it a day, I made one final stop at Siparos/Xifara on my way back. I couldn’t resist one more dip in the cool, refreshing water—it was the perfect way to wrap up an afternoon of beach-hopping before cruising back to Parikia.

Not wanting to linger there, I headed back past Kolympethres which looks quieter but is quite a narrow strip of sand close to the road and therefore also not that appealing.

Instead, with a few hours of the afternoon left, I decided to ride back around to Lageri as it had been the nicest beach I’d seen so far. However, when I returned it was much busier and also seemed quite popular with nudists (mostly men, sadly!) so I kept my distance and only stayed long enough to justify the journey. I then headed back towards Parikia, stopping once at Siparos/Xifara again because it was on the way and I couldn’t resist another refreshing swim.

Gym and Dinner

I returned the quad bike just before 5 PM, knowing my day of exploring was done and I didn’t need it anymore. After a day of hopping from beach to beach, I was feeling pretty worn out, and I almost convinced myself to skip the gym. The comfort of my room was calling, and a relaxing evening sounded tempting. But after a short rest, my better judgment kicked in. By 6:30, I had laced up my shoes and headed down to the gym.

The workout itself was nothing to write home about—a pretty standard session. I focused on some leg weights and ab exercises, though admittedly, I didn’t push myself as hard as I usually would. The energy wasn’t quite there after such an active day, but hey, showing up is half the battle, right? Even an average workout felt better than skipping it altogether, so I left the gym feeling good about not giving in to the temptation to rest all evening.

After another shower to freshen up, it was time to think about dinner. I decided to return to Aioli, a spot I’d been to before and enjoyed. The food is always solid, and it’s an ideal place to catch the sunset—a perfect setting to wind down after a full day. For the starter, I ordered their cod “doughnuts,” which, as I suspected, turned out to be battered pieces of fish served on a bed of garlicky mashed potatoes. They were delicious—crispy on the outside, tender inside, and the garlicky mash was the perfect pairing.

Unfortunately, the main course didn’t quite live up to the starter. I went for the mushroom tagliatelle, expecting rich, earthy flavours, but it fell flat. The dish lacked sauce and was surprisingly bland, with little depth or seasoning. Even after adding a generous amount of grated cheese and some salt, I couldn’t coax much flavour out of it. A bit disappointing, but at least the starter and the ambience made up for it.

As I lingered over my glass of wine, I watched the sun dip below the horizon, casting beautiful hues of pink and orange across the sky. It was a peaceful moment, and despite the underwhelming main course, I was content. With the sunset fading, I paid the bill and took a leisurely stroll back to the hotel, the day’s adventures catching up to me as I felt more than ready for bed.