Day 48: Island-Hopping Continues: Aegiali, Amorgos to Agia Anna, Naxos

Sunday 22nd August 2021

The next chapter of my island-hopping journey begins! While booking my stay in Amorgos, I cleverly secured accommodations for the next stops on my trip—because getting stranded once was enough. Today’s destination: the enchanting island of Naxos! I’ve lined up a five-night stay in Agia Anna at a cosy hotel called Birbas. It’s a bit farther from the beach than I’d prefer, but it’s a steal at just €54 per night (£46).

Morning on Amorgos: A Quest for Breakfast

To catch my 14:55 ferry from Katapola, I needed to make my way across Amorgos. But first—breakfast! Despite paying a whopping €92 for my one-night stay at Filoxenia Hotel, breakfast wasn’t included, so I ventured into the morning sun just after 8 a.m. in search of food and caffeine. I soon found myself at a charming café called Giali by the harbour. Their set menus didn’t quite hit the spot, so I pieced together my own breakfast—coffee, orange juice, yoghurt with honey, and water. A touch pricey at €12, but worth it for the fuel I needed to kick-start the day.

With nothing much left to explore in Aegiali, I opted for the 11:15 bus to Katapola instead of the later one. Better safe than sorry when ferries are involved! After a quick pack-up and a short stroll to the bus stop, I was on my way, soaking in the rugged beauty of Amorgos as we crossed the island and then descended towards the port.

Lunch, Memories, and a Late Ferry

I arrived in the small port village of Katapola around midday and, with my suitcase in tow, decided to revisit an old favourite—Corner Taverna. This gem became a beloved spot back in 2019 during a trip with Ed. I savoured an ice-cold beer and a mouthwatering pork gyros while reminiscing about that adventure. The kind staff even let me stash my suitcase while I explored the village, snapping photos and soaking up the seaside charm.

By the time I returned for another beer and some Kindle time, it was clear my ferry wasn’t going to be on schedule. MarineTraffic.com confirmed my suspicion: the Highspeed 4 ferry was running late, still docked at Koufonissi. No problem—I settled into my shaded table, enjoying the slow pace of Greek island life.

When the ferry finally arrived, boarding was quick, and we were off, slicing through the waves toward Naxos. The ride was rough at first, and although I skipped my usual ferry beer (two beers were plenty), I enjoyed the journey.

Back on Beloved Naxos

Naxos, how I’ve missed you! This marks my fifth visit to the island, and it still feels as magical as ever. Walking from the port, the sight of Apollo’s Gate silhouetted against the sky made me smile.

Rather than splurging on a taxi, I opted for the local bus to Agia Anna, knowing it would drop me near my hotel. After a swift ticket purchase, I hopped aboard. The 20-minute ride offered glimpses of familiar landmarks, each one bringing back fond memories.

A Sweaty Welcome to Hotel Birbas

The walk from the bus stop to Hotel Birbas was… let’s say “invigorating.” The road was busy, the sun relentless, and there was no pavement. But I made it, arriving at reception just before 6 p.m. Despite my prior notice, no one was around, so I had to call the hotel to summon help. Thankfully, the owner soon arrived, welcoming me warmly and showing me to a lovely room that instantly made up for the effortful trek.

A Sunset Dinner in Agia Anna

After unpacking a few essentials, I debated staying in with snacks but ultimately decided to head out. I wanted to revisit Agia Anna and stock up on breakfast supplies. The walk back to the village was far more pleasant in the cooler evening air, and the beachside promenade was as charming as I remembered.

For dinner, I chose Akrogiali, a taverna with prime sunset views. Their moussaka—a tasty tray-baked version albeit with a touch too much aubergine—paired beautifully with some local house wine. It was the perfect way to toast my return to Naxos.

On the way back to the hotel, I stopped at a supermarket to grab milk, yoghurt, honey, coffee, and orange juice—essentials for a leisurely breakfast in my room tomorrow. As I settled in for the night, I couldn’t wait to see what adventures the next few days on Naxos would bring.