Day 7: Visiting Kato Koufonissi

Today’s adventure led me to Kato Koufonissi, the even smaller neighbouring island to Ano Koufonissi, where I’m currently staying. After another early start and a hearty breakfast at Sophia’s Café, I strolled down to the harbour to sort out a boat ride to the nearby island.

Luck was clearly on my side—there was a boat, and best of all, it was free! The operator had just launched a new service and offered complimentary tickets for the day. Score! With a 10:30 AM departure, I had just enough time to dash back to my room, pack my rucksack, and slather on some sunscreen before returning to the dock.

The crossing to Kato Koufonissi was a breeze, taking only 15 minutes. The boat made a quick stop at the small “marina” before continuing to Nero Beach, my planned destination. Disembarking was quite the adventure—a makeshift jetty of planks precariously balanced on rocks. Talk about rustic charm!

Sadly, Nero Beach didn’t quite live up to expectations. The coarse shingle shore and the quickly deepening waters were a far cry from the dreamlike beaches I’d been enjoying the past two days. After a couple of hours of sunbathing, I decided to call it a day and catch the next boat back. In hindsight, I should have brought proper walking shoes—exploring the island or making the 3 km trek back to the marina could have salvaged the experience. Instead, I was stranded in sandals, limited to the beach.

Back on Ano Koufonissi, my streak of good luck hit a bump. Lunch at Nikita’s Café Bar was a disaster: a €4 “ham and cheese sandwich” turned out to be a dry burger bun with a single slice of processed cheese and ham. I couldn’t even finish it, let alone leave a tip.

Determined not to let the day fizzle out, I dropped my rucksack at the apartment and made a beeline for the town beach. It was just as lovely as I remembered—a serene spot to unwind. Even with a fair number of people around, it never felt crowded or chaotic.

For dinner, I decided to play it safe and return to Lavanda e Rosmarino, the standout restaurant from my first night. After the disappointment of lunch, I craved something guaranteed to hit the spot. Torn between the pizza and the saffron parmigiana risotto (meant for two), I asked the waitress if the kitchen could make the risotto for just one. To my delight, they agreed—and it was magnificent.

The rich risotto, paired with a glass (or two) of excellent wine and capped off with their delectable chocolate salami dessert, made for the perfect ending to an otherwise mixed day. Sometimes, a great meal really does save the day.